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La Pincée

Dish × condiment pairing

How do you season bubble and squeak?

Season : autumn, winter · Occasion : leftovers, weekend brunch, boxing day

Coarse black pepper, cracked late. Tellicherry's cocoa-and-leather heat lifts leftover potato and cabbage without burying it. Season the mash and greens before they hit the pan, then grind two or three fresh turns over the crisp side once it's plated. Salt the patty; let the pepper do the lifting.

In detail

To season bubble and squeak, work salt and coarse black pepper into the mashed potato and chopped greens before frying, then finish with a fresh coarse grind of Tellicherry black pepper over the crisp side once it's on the plate. Tellicherry, the TGSEB top grade off India's Malabar Coast, carries dark cocoa, worn leather and a broad, slow-building heat that lifts the soft leftover potato and cabbage without scorching it. Seasoning the mix early carries the flavour through the patty, but pepper's aromatic oils cook off in a hot pan, so the final grind at the plate is where the lift comes from. Crack it coarse and fresh, never pre-ground, and pair it with a pinch of flaky finishing salt such as Halen Môn on the crust. A jar of Tellicherry runs about £6 to £9 in the UK.

Illustration of Bubble and squeak with its condiment recommendation

Our recommendation

Tellicherry TGSEB black peppercorns, large uniform grains, matte black with brown highlights, macro on a mineral background

Pepper · Black pepper

Tellicherry Black Pepper

Malabar Coast, Kannur district (Kerala), India

Intensity 8/10

dark cocoa · worn leather · candied citrus

Bubble and squeak is leftover mash and greens, soft and a touch flat, and it wants a pepper with body, not just bite. Tellicherry's TGSEB berries bring dark cocoa, leather and a broad slow heat that fills the mouth without scorching the cabbage. Cracked coarse over the crisp side, it reads as warmth and depth. A jar runs about £6 to £9 here. Worth it.

Intensity 8/10

Where to buy it

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The catch

Don't drown a good bubble and squeak in fine pepper worked through the mix and call it seasoned. Most of that aroma cooks straight off in the hot fat, so all you're left with is dusty heat and no lift. The move is two-stage: season the mix lightly, then crack coarse Tellicherry over the crisp face at the plate, where the fresh oils actually land and the cocoa note survives.

Chef's note

Set your mill coarse and grind two or three turns over the crisp side the second it's plated, not into the pan. Press the patty flat and fry it hard in dripping or butter until one face goes properly golden, then leave that side up so the pepper sits on crust, not soft mash. Pinch a little Halen Môn on first for the bite; the Tellicherry is for warmth and depth on top.

Tasting note

dark cocoa · worn leather · broad slow heat · crisp potato · about £6 to £9 for a jar that outlasts a winter of leftovers. Worth it; it's your everyday grinder pepper and a clear step up from the supermarket tin.

These three sections appear on every one of our pairing pages — our methodology.

Alternatives to explore

Complementary ingredients

  • Halen Môn Sea Salt — The finishing salt for the patty itself, pinched over the crisp crust before the pepper goes on

Frequently asked questions

How do you season bubble and squeak?
Season the mashed potato and the greens with salt and pepper before you fry, so it carries through the patty. Then crack two or three coarse turns of Tellicherry black pepper over the crisp side once it's plated. Salt seasons; the late pepper adds warmth and lift.
Should you put pepper in bubble and squeak before or after frying?
Both. Pepper worked into the mix seasons it through, but a lot of the aroma cooks off in a hot pan. Save a final coarse grind for the plate, where the fresh-cracked oils land cleanest on the crisp face.
What pepper is best for bubble and squeak?
A coarse, fresh-cracked black pepper with body. Tellicherry's cocoa-and-leather heat suits the soft potato and cabbage, building slow and broad rather than sharp. Grind it at the plate; pre-ground pepper loses its oils within minutes.

This pairing was validated according to our methodology. Purchase links are marked sponsored and may earn a commission — details on our Affiliations page.