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La Pincée

Dish × condiment pairing

What pepper for oily grilled fish?

Season : spring, autumn · Occasion : weeknight, cookout

Sansho. Oily fish like mackerel needs a finish that cuts the fat, and sansho's yuzu-shiso aroma plus a cool tingle does it cleanly. Sear the mackerel over direct heat, then dust ground sansho over the hot skin at the table. Add it during cooking and the fragile aroma simply burns off.

In detail

For oily grilled fish like mackerel, the pepper is sansho (Zanthoxylum piperitum), Japan's mountain pepper. Rich, oily fish flattens a dull seasoning and needs something to cut the fat; sansho does it with an aroma of yuzu zest, green shiso and spearmint and a cool, short tingle that refreshes the palate between bites, without the heavy bite of black pepper. It lifts the char and lets the fish read clearly. Cook the mackerel over high, dry heat to crisp the oily skin, sear over direct heat outdoors or under a hot broiler indoors, then dust ground sansho over the hot skin at the table. Add it during cooking and the volatile aroma burns straight off, so it is a finishing pepper only. Buy whole husks from Arima in Wakayama, grind fresh, and use within nine months. A 12 g bottle costs about $8.

Illustration of Grilled mackerel with its condiment recommendation

Our recommendation

Japanese sansho pepper husks, small finely textured green-brown grains, in a Japanese ceramic dish

Pepper · Pepper cousin

Sansho

Arima, Wakayama Prefecture, island of Honshu, Japan

Intensity 7/10
Palette

yuzu zest · green shiso leaf · spearmint

Mackerel is rich and oily, the kind of fish that flattens a dull seasoning. Sansho's bright citrus-and-shiso aroma and cool, fleeting tingle slice through that oil and lift the char without the bite of black pepper. From Arima in Wakayama, picked young so the aroma is fine, not dusty. Dust it over the cooked skin at the table. A 12 g bottle runs about $8.

Intensity 7/10

Where to buy it

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The catch

Oily fish is where dull pepper goes to die; it just sits there and the mackerel reads heavy. Sansho is the fix, but only if you add it right. Dust it during the cook and the volatile yuzu-shiso aroma burns off over the flame, leaving you nothing. It is a finishing pepper. The tingle and citrus only cut the fat if they hit the fish off the heat.

Chef's note

Get the skin properly crisp first: high, dry heat, seared over direct flame on a barbecue or under a hot broiler indoors. Pat the mackerel dry before it cooks. Then, off the heat, grind a fine pinch of fresh sansho over the hot skin at the table. Crush whole husks in a mortar; the cooler, finer aroma beats anything pre-ground.

Tasting note

yuzu zest · green shiso · cool fat-cutting tingle · about $8 for a 12 g bottle, or £5.30 in the UK. Worth it, and one bottle handles a whole season of grilled fish.

These three sections appear on every one of our pairing pages — our methodology.

Alternatives to explore

Frequently asked questions

Why does sansho suit oily fish like mackerel?
Oily fish needs something to cut the fat, and sansho's citrus-and-shiso aroma with a cool, cleansing tingle does exactly that. It refreshes the palate between bites without the heavy bite of black pepper, so the char and the fish both come through.
When do I add sansho to grilled mackerel?
After cooking, dusted over the hot skin just before serving. The aromatics are volatile and burn off over direct heat, so sansho is a finishing pepper only. Grind a fine pinch fresh at the table.
Do I grill or broil mackerel for this pairing?
Either works; the key is high, dry heat to crisp the oily skin. Sear over direct heat on a barbecue, or under a hot broiler if you are indoors. Then finish with sansho off the heat, never during the cook.

This pairing was validated according to our methodology. Purchase links are marked sponsored and may earn a commission — details on our Affiliations page.