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La Pincée

Dish × condiment pairing

Which wild pepper for venison?

Season : fall, winter · Occasion : weekend, dinner party, special occasion

Voatsiperifery, the wild Madagascan vine pepper. Its precious-wood and citrus-floral notes meet venison's iron and gaminess without fighting it. Crush two or three berries coarse in a mortar and add them off the heat, over the rested, sliced roast. The aromatics are volatile, so a finish, never a marinade or a long roast.

In detail

The best wild pepper for venison is voatsiperifery, Piper borbonense, one of the very few peppers still harvested entirely in the wild from Madagascar's east-coast rainforest. Its perfume, precious wood like sandalwood and rosewood, fresh citrus and wild flowers over a soft resinous heat, meets the iron and gaminess of roast venison without fighting it, and the finish holds for nearly a minute, matching the meat's depth. Because those aromatic oils are volatile, voatsiperifery is a finishing pepper, full stop: crush two or three berries coarse in a mortar and scatter them raw over the rested, sliced roast, off the heat. Don't marinate with it or roast it in, where the perfume fades before it works. You recognize the real thing by the tiny stem left on each berry. A 20 g jar runs around $11 from World Spice, a splurge, but a singular one.

Illustration of Roast venison with its condiment recommendation

Our recommendation

Wild voatsiperifery peppercorns, small brown berries each with their characteristic tiny stem, macro on a dark wood background

Pepper · Black pepper

Voatsiperifery Pepper

East-coast rainforest, Manakara and Mananjary districts, Madagascar

Intensity 7/10
Palette

precious wood · fresh citrus · wild flowers

Voatsiperifery is one of the only peppers still harvested fully wild, Piper borbonense climbing Madagascar's east-coast rainforest. Its perfume of sandalwood, fresh citrus and wild flowers sits with venison's iron-rich, gamey meat better than a sharp black pepper, and the finish runs nearly a minute. That long aromatic tail matches the depth of roast game. Crush it coarse and add it raw, at the end.

Intensity 7/10

Where to buy it

Prices checked on

Merchant Price Action
World Spice World Spice
Amazon US Amazon US
Sous Chef UK Sous Chef UK

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The catch

A wild pepper this rare does nothing buried in a marinade. Voatsiperifery's whole gift is that perfume, sandalwood, citrus, wild flowers, and those oils are volatile: leave the berries soaking in wine and aromatics overnight and the scent fades before the meat hits the oven. You've spent $11 on a 20 g jar to season the bin. Crush it fresh and add it raw, at the end, or don't bother buying it.

Chef's note

Crush, don't mill. Put two or three berries in a mortar and crack them coarse, keeping the bits uneven, which protects the volatile oils a fine grinder would shear off. Roast and rest the venison first, then slice and scatter the crushed pepper over the cut faces off the heat. Keep the little stems on the berries until you crush them, the tell of the genuine wild-harvested grain.

Tasting note

precious wood · fresh citrus · wild flowers · long resinous finish · around $11 for a 20 g jar from World Spice, up to about $14 elsewhere. A splurge per gram, but you use two or three berries at a time, so a jar lasts. Worth it for game.

These three sections appear on every one of our pairing pages — our methodology.

Alternatives to explore

Complementary ingredients

Frequently asked questions

What is the best pepper for roast venison?
Wild voatsiperifery from Madagascar. Its woody, citrus-floral perfume and long finish stand up to venison's iron and gaminess without overpowering the meat. Crush it coarse and add it raw over the sliced roast, off the heat.
Can you marinate venison with voatsiperifery?
Don't. The resinous, perfumed aromatics are volatile and fade in a long marinade before they do any work. This is a finishing pepper: crush two or three berries and scatter them over the rested meat at the very end.
How do you grind voatsiperifery pepper?
Crush two or three berries coarse in a mortar rather than running them through a mill, which preserves the volatile oils. Keep the tiny stem on each berry, the mark of the genuine wild-harvested article.

This pairing was validated according to our methodology. Purchase links are marked sponsored and may earn a commission — details on our Affiliations page.